HDMI port — no picture
A knocked or yanked cable bends the pins inside the port and the screen goes black. Board-level job: we desolder the damaged port and micro-solder a fresh one on. Most shops won’t — more below.
XBOX · EVERY CONSOLE · BOARD LEVEL & UP
Xbox black screen, dead console, drifting sticks?
We fix what others write off.
A knocked HDMI port that killed the picture, an Xbox that won’t power on, no display at all, sticks that drift on their own — even the board-level faults most shops send away. We work to component level under the microscope: bent HDMI ports get a fresh one micro-soldered on, dead boards get diagnosed down to the failed part, and your games and saves stay right where they are. Everyday jobs same-day where the part’s in stock.
SAME-DAY WHERE THE PART’S IN STOCK · MIN. 90-DAY WARRANTY
EVERY XBOX REPAIR
If it’s an Xbox, it’s on our bench.
Not just a controller swap. From a black screen that needs a new HDMI port to an Xbox that won’t boot, here’s the lot we take on — the everyday jobs done same-day where the part’s in stock, the board-level work done properly under the microscope, and a straight answer before we start. Not sure what’s wrong? Bring it in, we’ll work it out for free.
Won’t power on / no boot
Dead, no boot, or it powers on but nothing reaches the screen. We diagnose the power section down to the failed component, not swap the whole board — more below.
Overheating & thermal service
Fans screaming, shutdowns mid-game, or just running hot. A deep clean, fresh thermal paste, and the airflow cleared so it runs cool and quiet again.
Disc drive won’t read or eject
Discs that won’t load, grind, or get stuck halfway. We service or replace the drive and its laser so games load first time again.
Controller stick drift
Characters that wander on their own. We replace the analog stick module — Xbox Wireless or Elite controller — with a hall-effect upgrade option that resists drift.
Loud fan / deep clean
Years of dust chokes the airflow and the fan roars to keep up. Stripped, cleaned and rebuilt so it runs quiet and cool again.
Storage / SSD / HDD
Out of space, a failing drive, or an SSD upgrade. Fitted, formatted and tested so your library sits where it should.
Charging & USB ports
A controller that won’t charge, or a console USB port that’s dead or loose. Replaced and tested, matched to your model.
Liquid / water damage
A spill or a flood. Power it off, don’t turn it back on — flat $65 assessment first.
Water damageLaser / Blu-ray
A tired laser that reads some discs and not others. We replace the laser or the whole optical block, then re-test across your games.
Error codes / system software
Stuck on an error code, boot-looping, or won’t update. We find the cause before quoting — and keep your data where we can.
Board-level / component repair
Dead after a knock, a shorted line, a failed component. Diagnosed to the chip and repaired under the microscope, not written off.
More than an Xbox at home? We fix everything else too — phones, tablets and laptops, all on the one bench.
THE FLAGSHIP FIX · HDMI PORT
The HDMI-port fix others write off.
Here’s the one most shops send away. Someone trips on the cable, or the Xbox tips off the shelf, and the pins inside the HDMI port bend or snap. The result is the classic black screen — the console powers on, the fan spins, but no picture ever reaches the TV. The usual line is ‘the board’s gone, buy a new one’. It isn’t.
The port is one component on the board, not the whole board. We desolder the damaged one and micro-solder a fresh HDMI port in its place — and your games, saves and drive never move.
It’s a board-level job, so figure 1 to 3 days done properly under the microscope, and it’s no-fix-no-fee. Get a quote
THE DIFFERENCE · BOARD-LEVEL REPAIR
We go to board level.
This is the bit that sends most shops running. When an Xbox won’t power on, shows no display, or goes dead after a knock, the easy answer is ‘it’s finished’. Often it isn’t — it’s one component on the board that’s given up.
A failed power component, a dropped rail, a shorted line after a fall — we diagnose down to that part and replace it under the microscope. No power, no display, dead after a drop: often fixable at the component, without swapping the whole board. And your games and saves stay on the console.
A dead-looking Xbox is usually one failed component, not a write-off. And your library never leaves the machine.
Board-level work isn’t a same-day job — figure 1 to 3 days, tested properly — and it’s no-fix-no-fee. If we can’t save it, you don’t pay for the attempt. Start a quote
CONTROLLERS · STICK DRIFT
Controller drift, fixed for good.
Stick drift is the common one: you let go and the character keeps walking, the camera keeps spinning, the menu scrolls on its own. It’s the analog stick module wearing out inside the controller, and it hits the Xbox Wireless and Elite controllers alike.
We replace the worn analog stick module and test it properly before it goes back. Want it to stay fixed? Ask about the hall-effect upgrade — magnetic sticks that don’t wear the same way, so drift is far less likely to come back at all.
Most controllers are a same-day job where the part’s in stock. Get a quote
EVERYDAY JOBS · HEAT, FANS & DISCS
Overheating, fans & disc drives.
Not every fault is board-level. Most consoles that run hot, roar, or stop reading discs just need the everyday work done right — and done right is the whole point.
- Thermal service done properly — a full strip and deep clean, then fresh thermal paste so it runs cool and quiet instead of throttling and shutting down
- Airflow cleared the right way — the heatsink, fan and vents stripped of years of dust so the fan isn’t fighting to keep up, no shortcuts and nothing left rattling around inside
- Disc-drive and laser faults — discs that won’t read, load or eject sorted at the drive or the laser, then tested across your games
Most of this is a same-day job where the part’s in stock — drop it in and we’ll have a look. Get a quote
MODELS WE COVER
From the Xbox Series X to the Xbox One — and every controller between.
If it’s an Xbox, it’s on the bench — every Series X and Series S, the whole Xbox One family, and the controllers that come with them. Newer consoles are the quick ones; older ones take a bit longer. Not sure which you’ve got? Tell us and we’ll sort it.
SERIES
- Xbox Series X
- Xbox Series S
XBOX ONE
- Xbox One X
- Xbox One S
- Xbox One
CONTROLLERS
- Xbox Wireless Controller
- Elite Controller
XBOX PRICING
Indicative ‘from’ prices.
REPAIR
WHAT WE DO
FROM
HDMI port replacement
Board-level, damaged port off, fresh one micro-soldered on
From $149
Won’t power on / no display
Component-level diagnosis & repair, to the chip
From $150
Overheating / thermal service
Deep clean, fresh paste, airflow cleared where needed
From $99
Disc drive / laser
Won’t read or eject, drive or laser sorted
From $99
Controller stick drift
Analog stick module replaced & tested
From $59
Hall-effect stick upgrade
Drift-resistant magnetic sticks fitted
From $89
Charging / USB port
Port replaced, matched to your console
From $99
Liquid assessment
Open-up, clean & diagnosis
$65 flat
INDICATIVE ONLY — EXACT PRICE DEPENDS ON YOUR XBOX & WHAT’S ACTUALLY WRONG · INC. PARTS, FITTING & MINIMUM 90-DAY WARRANTY · NO-FIX-NO-FEE · GET A REAL NUMBER AT /PAGES/QUOTE
XBOX QUESTIONS
Straight answers.
My Xbox won’t show a picture — can you fix it?
Usually, yes. A black screen with the Xbox still powering on is almost always a bent or damaged HDMI port — the pins inside get knocked when a cable is yanked or the console takes a fall. That’s a board-level repair: we desolder the damaged port and micro-solder a fresh one in its place, under the microscope. Most shops call it a write-off; it usually isn’t. Figure 1 to 3 days, and it’s no-fix-no-fee.
Do you fix Xbox controller stick drift?
Yes — it’s one of the most common jobs we do. Drift is the analog stick module wearing out, on the Xbox Wireless and Elite controllers alike. We replace the module and test it before it goes back. If you want it to stay gone, ask about the hall-effect upgrade: magnetic sticks that don’t wear the same way, so drift is far less likely to return.
My Xbox is overheating or the fan’s loud — what’s involved?
A deep clean and fresh thermal paste, mostly. Dust chokes the airflow over the years, the fan spins up to compensate, and the Xbox runs hot or shuts down mid-game. We strip it, clean it out, clear the heatsink and vents, and re-paste it so it comes back quiet and cool. Same-day where the part’s in stock.
Will I lose my games or saves?
No. A repair doesn’t touch your games, saves or profiles — the storage stays in the console and your library stays put. That holds for board-level work too, including an HDMI-port fix: we’re working on the hardware, not wiping your data.
What warranty do I get?
Every repair carries a minimum 90-day warranty on the part and our workmanship — longer on plenty of jobs. If something we fitted plays up in that window, bring it back and we’ll sort it. It’s all no-fix-no-fee too: if we can’t fix it, you don’t pay for the attempt.
Which Xbox consoles do you cover?
The lot — every Xbox from the Series X and Series S back through the Xbox One, One S and One X. We fix their controllers too — the Xbox Wireless Controller and the Elite Controller. Not sure which you’ve got? Tell us and we’ll work it out.
Xbox down?
Free look,
honest answer.
Tell us the Xbox and what it’s doing — black screen, no power, drift, overheating. We’ll have a proper look, tell you if it’s worth fixing, and quote it — parts and all — before we touch a screwdriver.
K10, DFO Uni Hill, 2 Janefield Drive, Bundoora · open every day 10:00am–6:00pm