Joy-Con drift
Your character walks off on its own, or the menu scrolls with no hands on it. That’s a worn analog stick — we replace the stick module, with a drift-resistant hall-effect option if you want it gone for good.
NINTENDO SWITCH · EVERY MODEL · JOY-CON TO BOARD LEVEL
Drifting sticks, dead charge, cracked screen?
We fix every Switch.
Joy-Con drift is the one everyone knows — a worn analog stick that walks your character across the screen, and we replace it, with a drift-resistant hall-effect upgrade if you want it gone for good. Then there’s the fault most shops turn away: a Switch that won’t charge. A knocked USB-C port or a failed charging IC, resoldered or replaced at board level — not a whole-unit swap. Everything in between too. Quality parts, a straight answer before we start, same-day where the part’s in stock.
SAME-DAY WHERE THE PART’S IN STOCK · MIN. 90-DAY WARRANTY
EVERY NINTENDO SWITCH REPAIR
If it’s a Switch, it’s on our bench.
Not just drift and cracked screens. From a worn stick module to a board that won’t charge, here’s the lot we take on — quality replacement parts, the board-level work most shops turn away, and a straight answer before we start. Not sure what’s wrong? Bring it in, we’ll work it out for free.
Screen — LCD & OLED
Cracked glass, dead touch, or lines across the panel. LCD on the standard and Lite, the OLED panel on the OLED model — replaced properly and tested before it goes back.
Charging port — USB-C
Charges at an angle, keeps dropping out, or nothing at all. A knocked USB-C port comes off and a new one goes on at board level — resoldered under the microscope, not a whole-unit swap.
Battery replacement
Dies mid-game, or won’t hold a charge. A quality replacement cell, fitted and tested so it lasts a session again.
Battery repairsWon’t charge / charge IC
Dead, no charge, nothing on the screen. Often a failed charging IC on the board, not a write-off — we diagnose to the chip and replace it. More below.
Joy-Con rail & connectors
A Joy-Con that won’t slide on, won’t lock, or won’t register. We replace the rail and the connectors so they click in and stay put.
Buttons & triggers
ZL/ZR gone mushy, a sticky face button, or a dead D-pad. Replaced so they press and release the way they should.
Speakers & audio
No sound, crackle, or one side gone quiet. Speakers cleaned or replaced and tested properly before it goes back.
Cooling fan & overheating
Fan roaring, shutting down mid-game, or running hot to the touch. We clean it out, repaste, or replace the fan so it keeps its cool.
Game-card reader
Cartridges not reading, or the slot won’t grab them. The card reader replaced and checked with a game before it leaves.
Liquid / water damage
A spill or a soaking. Power it off, don’t charge it — flat $65 assessment first.
Water damageSystem software / bricked
Stuck on the logo, throwing error codes, or won’t boot after an update. We find the cause before quoting — and keep your games and saves where we can.
More than the Switch in the house? We fix everything else too — phones, tablets, laptops and other consoles.
JOY-CON DRIFT · THE SIGNATURE FIX
Joy-Con drift, fixed for good.
It’s the fault every Switch owner knows: your character drifts across the screen, the cursor slides on its own, and no amount of recalibrating makes it stop. That’s the analog stick wearing out inside the Joy-Con — a mechanical fault, and one we fix properly rather than nurse along.
We replace the whole analog stick module, not just clean it — and if you want it gone for good, we can fit a drift-resistant hall-effect stick that doesn’t wear the same way the standard part does, so the drift doesn’t creep back.
Most drift jobs are same-day where the part’s in stock, and it’s covered by our minimum 90-day warranty like everything else. Get a quote
THE DIFFERENCE · BOARD-LEVEL REPAIR
We go to board level.
This is the bit that sends most shops running. When a Switch won’t charge or goes dead, the usual line is ‘it’s finished, buy a new one’. Often it isn’t — it’s a knocked USB-C port or a failed charging IC on the board that’s given up.
We diagnose down to that part and fix it under the microscope — the charging port resoldered or replaced, the charge IC swapped at the component. No whole-unit swap, no data wipe: your games and saves stay right where they are on the console.
A Switch that won’t charge is usually one damaged port or a failed chip, not a write-off. And your games and saves never leave the console.
Board-level work isn’t a same-day job — figure 1 to 3 days — and it’s no-fix-no-fee. If we can’t save it, you don’t pay for the attempt. Start a quote
THE SCREEN · LCD & OLED
Screens, LCD and OLED.
Cracked glass, dead touch, or lines across the display — the screen is usually the first thing to go when a Switch hits the floor. What sits behind the glass depends on the model, and we fit the right panel for yours rather than a one-size copy.
The standard Switch and the Lite run an LCD; the OLED model runs an OLED panel with deeper blacks and richer colour. We replace like for like — an LCD on the LCD models, a proper OLED panel on the OLED — and test it before it goes back, so it looks the way it did out of the box.
Most screen jobs are same-day where the part’s in stock, and they carry the same minimum 90-day warranty. Get a quote
THE PORT & THE REST · EVERYDAY FIXES
The charge port and the rest.
Beyond drift and dead boards, most of what comes across the bench is the everyday stuff — a worn USB-C port, a card reader that won’t grab games, buttons that stick, a fan that roars. All fixable, and most of them quick.
- USB-C charging port replaced — the knock-about part that frays from daily docking and undocking, done at board level where it needs it
- Game-card reader and buttons — cartridges that won’t read, a sticky ZL/ZR or D-pad, replaced so they work first time
- Fan noise and overheating — a fan clogged with dust or on its way out, cleaned, repasted or replaced so it stops shutting down mid-game
Tell us what it’s doing and we’ll tell you straight what it needs — and what it’ll cost — before we start. Get a quote
MODELS WE COVER
From the Switch 2 to the OLED, the original and the Lite — we’ve got it.
If it’s a Switch, it’s on the bench — the new Switch 2, the Switch OLED, the original (v1 and v2) and the Switch Lite, plus the Joy-Con and the Pro Controller. Newer models are the quick ones; older ones take a bit longer. Not sure which you’ve got? Tell us and we’ll sort it.
CONSOLES
- Switch 2
- Switch OLED
- Switch / v2
- Switch Lite
JOY-CON & CONTROLLERS
- Joy-Con L / R
- Joy-Con 2
- Pro Controller
COMMON FAULTS
- Joy-Con drift
- Won’t charge
- Cracked screen
SWITCH PRICING
Indicative ‘from’ prices.
REPAIR
WHAT WE DO
FROM
Joy-Con drift
Analog stick module replaced & tested
From $69
Hall-effect upgrade
Drift-resistant stick, per stick
From $89
Screen — LCD
LCD panel replaced, tested
From $99
Screen — OLED
OLED panel replaced, tested
From $149
Battery replacement
Quality replacement cell, tested
From $89
Charging port (USB-C)
Board-level, resoldered or replaced
From $99
Charge IC / no-charge
Component-level board repair
From $120
Water assessment
Open-up, clean & diagnosis
$65 flat
INDICATIVE ONLY — EXACT PRICE DEPENDS ON YOUR MODEL & WHAT’S ACTUALLY WRONG · INC. PARTS, FITTING & MINIMUM 90-DAY WARRANTY · NO-FIX-NO-FEE · GET A REAL NUMBER AT /PAGES/QUOTE
SWITCH QUESTIONS
Straight answers.
You can actually fix Joy-Con drift?
Yes — and properly, not just a recalibrate that lasts a week. Drift is a worn analog stick inside the Joy-Con, so we replace the whole stick module. If you want it gone for good, we can fit a drift-resistant hall-effect stick that doesn’t wear the same way the standard part does — that’s the upgrade that stops it coming back.
My Switch won’t charge — is it dead?
Usually not. Nine times out of ten a Switch that won’t charge is a board-level fix, not a write-off — either the USB-C port has been knocked loose and needs resoldering or replacing, or the charging IC on the board has failed and needs swapping at the component. We diagnose down to the part and fix that, rather than telling you to buy a new console. It’s no-fix-no-fee, so if we can’t save it you don’t pay for the attempt.
Can you replace a cracked Switch screen?
Yes — LCD and OLED both. The standard Switch and the Lite use an LCD; the OLED model uses an OLED panel. We replace like for like with the right panel for your model and test it before it goes back, so it looks the way it did out of the box.
Will I lose my games and saves?
No. A screen, stick, port or battery job doesn’t touch your storage, and even our board-level charging repairs are done on the console itself — nothing gets wiped. Your games, saves and account stay exactly where they are.
What warranty do I get?
Every repair carries a minimum 90-day warranty on the part and our workmanship — longer on plenty of jobs. If something we fitted plays up in that window, bring it back and we’ll sort it. It’s all no-fix-no-fee too: if we can’t fix it, you don’t pay for the attempt.
Which models do you cover?
The lot — the new Switch 2, the Switch OLED, the original Switch (v1 and v2) and the Switch Lite, plus the Joy-Con and the Pro Controller. Newer models are the quick ones; older ones take a bit longer. Not sure which you’ve got? Tell us and we’ll work it out.
Switch playing up?
Free look,
honest answer.
Tell us the model and what it’s doing — drift, no charge, cracked screen, whatever it is. We’ll have a proper look, tell you if it’s worth fixing, and quote it — parts and all — before we touch a screwdriver.
K10, DFO Uni Hill, 2 Janefield Drive, Bundoora · open every day 10:00am–6:00pm