Cracked screen / glass
A cracked or damaged panel, or broken front glass. Opened properly — the display is bonded on many models — then replaced, resealed and tested.
An iMac packs everything behind the glass — on many models the display is bonded on with adhesive — so it has to be opened properly, and that’s what we do. Cracked screens, dead drives, SSD and RAM upgrades, no-power and board-level faults, a proper clean when it runs hot, macOS and data recovery. One bench, a straight answer before any work, and a free diagnosis to work out what’s actually wrong.
From a cracked screen to an iMac that won’t power on, here’s the lot we do — a proper assessment first, original-first parts where we can, and a straight answer before we start. Not sure what’s wrong? Bring it in, we’ll work it out for free.
A cracked or damaged panel, or broken front glass. Opened properly — the display is bonded on many models — then replaced, resealed and tested.
Lines across the display, a dark screen, or the backlight gone. Diagnosed properly, then the panel or backlight sorted — original-first where we can get it.
More memory on the models that allow it — the 27-inch Intel iMacs have a RAM door. On the 21.5-inch and the M-series it’s soldered; we’ll tell you straight.
Files stuck on a failing drive, or moving everything onto a new machine. We recover what we can and migrate your data across.
A wobbly or sagging stand, or a hinge that won’t hold the screen up. Checked and sorted so it sits where you put it.
Swapping a slow hard drive or Fusion Drive for an SSD is the single biggest speed win on an older Intel iMac. Fitted, with your data moved across.
Nothing when you hit the button, or random shutdowns. The internal power supply tested and replaced to suit your iMac.
Running hot, loud, or throttling. A full dust-out, fresh thermal paste on the chip, and a fan check so heat actually moves out.
Powers on but nothing on screen, or no life at all. We work through the power supply, the backlight and the logic board to find what’s stopping it.
A GPU failure, no-boot or no-power fault down at a single component. Board-level work by our specialists — more below.
A spill or a leak into the all-in-one. Power it off, don’t switch it on — book a water-damage assessment first.
Water damageCrawling slow, boot-looping, a bad update, or a fresh drive to set up. We find the cause, then reinstall macOS, clean it up or move your data across.
Got more than an iMac in the house? We fix everything else too, across Macs, phones, tablets and consoles.
Here’s where the all-in-one design catches most shops out. Everything — the display, the drive, the RAM, the logic board, the power supply and the fan — is packed in behind the screen, and on many models the display is bonded on with adhesive. It has to be opened the right way, not forced.
Cracked glass, a dead drive, a no-power fault — it all lives behind the display. We open it cleanly, do the work, and reseal it so it looks untouched.
A cracked screen or a panel that’s gone dark — opened, repaired and resealed, with original-first parts where we can get them. Get a quote
This is the bit that sends most shops running. When an iMac won’t power on, shows no display, or the graphics fail, the usual line is ‘it’s finished, buy a new one’. Often it isn’t — it’s the power supply, the backlight, or one component on the logic board that’s given up.
We diagnose it properly, and where the fault is down at the component we have the board-level work done by our board-level specialists. iMac panels are dear, so the honest first step is often a proper diagnosis rather than assuming the screen. And through all of it your drive and your data stay put.
A dead-looking iMac is usually one failed part, not a write-off. And your files never leave the machine.
Board-level work isn’t a same-day job — figure 1 to 3 days — and it’s no-fix-no-fee. If we can’t save it, you don’t pay for the attempt. Start a quote
The upgrades that actually move the needle on an iMac. Swapping a slow hard drive or Fusion Drive for an SSD is the single biggest speed win on an older Intel machine — it feels like a new computer. And on the models that allow it, more RAM helps too.
We’ll be straight about what your iMac can take: the 27-inch Intel models have a RAM door, but the 21.5-inch and the M-series 24-inch have their RAM soldered to the board. We tell you what’s worth doing before you spend, not after.
Fitted, with macOS reinstalled and your data moved across before it comes home. Get a quote
An iMac that runs hot, spins its fan up, or throttles under load is usually choked with dust and running on dried-out thermal paste. A proper clean sorts it — opened up, cleared out and re-pasted.
A proper clean, done right — quieter, cooler and no throttling. Get a quote
From the 21.5-inch and 27-inch Intel iMacs and the iMac Pro to the 24-inch M1 and M3 all-in-ones — we repair and upgrade the lot. Not sure which you’ve got? Tell us what’s on it and we’ll sort it.
PRICED AFTER WE SEE IT — EVERY REPAIR OR UPGRADE DEPENDS ON THE MODEL, THE PART & WHAT’S ACTUALLY WRONG · INC. PARTS, FITTING & MINIMUM 90-DAY WARRANTY · NO-FIX-NO-FEE · GET A REAL NUMBER AT /PAGES/QUOTE
Yes — and because the display is bonded to the front of the all-in-one on many models, it has to be opened properly rather than forced. We replace the cracked glass or the panel behind it, reseal it and test it. iMac panels are dear and usually order-in, so where a screen is dark or has lines we’ll often start with a proper diagnosis rather than assume the panel — original-first parts where we can get them.
Usually the best-value upgrade there is. Swapping a slow hard drive or Fusion Drive for an SSD is the single biggest speed-up on an older Intel iMac — it feels like a new machine. We fit the SSD, reinstall macOS and move your data across so nothing’s left behind.
Depends on the model, and we’ll be straight with you. The 27-inch Intel iMacs have a user-accessible RAM door, so more memory is an easy win. But the 21.5-inch iMacs and the M-series 24-inch (M1 and M3) have the RAM soldered to the board — it can’t be upgraded. Tell us which you’ve got and we’ll tell you what’s possible before you spend.
Usually, yes. An iMac that won’t power on or shows nothing on screen is often the power supply, the backlight, or a fault on the logic board rather than a write-off. We diagnose it properly, and where the fault is down at a single component we have the board-level work done by our specialists. Diagnosis is quick; parts and panels are order-in, and board-level is usually 1 to 3 days. It’s no-fix-no-fee, and your drive and data stay put.
Every repair and upgrade carries a minimum 90-day warranty on the parts and our workmanship — longer on plenty of jobs. If something we fitted plays up in that window, bring it back and we’ll sort it. It’s all no-fix-no-fee too: if we can’t fix it, you don’t pay for the attempt.
The 21.5-inch and 27-inch Intel iMacs (roughly 2012 to 2020), the iMac Pro, and the 24-inch M1 (2021) and M3 (2023) models. Whatever you’ve got, bring it in — we’ll have a proper look and give you a straight answer before any work.
Tell us what you’ve got and what it’s doing. We’ll have a proper look, tell you what’s worth doing, and quote it before we touch a screwdriver.